UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 
AT    LOS  ANGELES 


UNITED   STATES  DEPARTMENT   OF  AG 

FARMERS' 
BULLETIN 


ASHINGTON,  D.  C.  685  OCTOBKR  12,  1915 

Contribution  from  the  Bureau  of  Plant  Industry,  Win.  A.  Taylor,  Chief. 

THE  NATIVE  PERSIMMON. 

By  W.  F.  FLETCHER, 
Scientific  Assistant,  Office  of  Horticultural  and  Pomological  Investigations. 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Introduction 1 

Botanical  classification 2 

Natural  distribution  of  the  persimmon 2 

General  description  of  the  persimmon 3 

Possibilities  of  improvement 5 

Present  status  of  the  native  persimmon 6 


Page. 

7 
19 
20 
21 
21 
Selected  and  cultivated  named  varieties 24 


Propagation  of  the  persimmon 

Cultivation  of  the  persimmon 

Diseases  and  insect  pests 

Uses  of  the  persimmon  tree 

Uses  of  the  persimmon  fruit 


INTRODUCTION. 

The  persimmon  seems  to  have  been  the  first  native  American  fruit 
>  be  described  and  praised  by  the  early  explorers.  De  Soto  learned 
its  food  value  in  1539,  and  in  1557  published  an  account  of  it  at 
JEvora,  Portugal.  Trie  following  year,  1558,  Jan  de  Laet  described 
j  the  persimmon  in  his  work  on  Virginia.  John  Smith's  narrative  of 
the  settlements  and  resources  of  the  New  World,  written  during  the 
first  years  of  the  seventeenth  century,  included  a  long  discussion  of 
the  persimmon.  In  his  reference  to  this  fruit,  where  he  says  "If  it  be 
not  ripe,  it  will  draw  a  man's  mouth  awrie  with  much  torment,"  he 
so  well  characterizes  the  puckering,  astringent  effect  of  the  tannin 
[contained  in  the  immature  fruit  that  no  other  comment  is  necessary. 

The  persimmon  tree  has  received  more  criticism,  both  adverse  and 
[favorable,  than  almost  any  other  known  species.  Those  who  have 
discussed  the  food  value  of  the  fruit,  from  the  earliest  chroniclers  to 
recent  writers,  have  prophesied  that  the  tree  would  soon  be  accorded 
a  place  in  our  gardens  and  orchards.  Those  people,  on  the  other 
j  hand,  who  have  been  acquainted  only  with  the  immature  fruit  or 
I  with  the  young  sprouts  in  cultivated  fields  have  had  nothing  to  say 

NOTE. — This  is  a  general  bulletin,  intended  for  those  to  whom  knowledge  of  the  production,  prepara- 
tion, and  uses  of  the  native  persimmon  is  of  value. 

OF 

COLLEGE  Of 
BERKELEY,  CAUFQP* 


'FARMERS'  BVLLETJ-N   686. 


in  its  favor  and  have  bent  their  energies  toward  its  destruction  rather 
than  its  propagation  and  cultivation. 

There  are  several  factors  which  are  responsible  for  the  slow  progress 
of  persimmon  development  in  this  country.  One  reason  for  the 
neglect  of  this  fruit  seems  to  be  the  erroneous  yet  oft-repeated  state- 
ment that  persimmons  are  unfit  to  eat  until  they  have  either  been 
touched  by  frost  or  frozen.  Although  this  statement  has  been 
corrected  by  nearly  every  one  who  has  studied  the  subject,  neverthe- 
less throughout  the  regions  where  persimmons  are  grown  many  of  the 
best  fruits  are  lost  each  year  because  they  ripen  and  fall  before  frost 
or  before  they  are  supposed  to  be  edible.  The  truth  of  the  matter 
is  that  freezing  is  as  detrimental  to  the  quality  of  persimmons  as  to 
the  quality  of  any  other  fruit.  If  persimmons  are  not  edible  and 
free  from  astringency  before  frost,  it  is  because  the  variety  is  a  late 
one  and  the  fruit  has  not  yet  matured. 

The  development  of  the  persimmon,  whether  for  orchard  or  orna- 
mental purposes,  has  been  retarded  by  the  difficulty  encountered  hi 
propagating  and  transplanting  it.  One  grower  has  characterized  it 
as  the  only  tree  that  he  could  not  kill  in  his  cultivated  fields  and  the 
only  one  that  he  could  not  make  live  in  his  garden.  Failure  in 
transplanting  is  usually  due  to  a  lack  of  knowledge  concerning  the 
characteristic  root  development  of  the  persimmon.  Under  natural 
conditions,  the  roots  penetrate  much  deeper  into  the  soil  than  those 
of  most  other  fruit  trees,  and  unless  great  care  is  exercised  when  the 
tree  is  taken  up  it  is  almost  impossible  to  get  more  than  a  small 
percentage  of  the  root  system,  thus  reducing  the  chance  of  making 
the  tree  live  when  transplanted. 

From  tune  to  time  valuable  trees  have  been,  discovered,  cared  for, 
and  even  in  some  cases  transplanted  or  propagated.  Most  of  these 
have  been  soon  neglected  or  destroyed,  until  there  are  comparatively 
few  varieties  of  marked  value  available  for  general  distribution. 

Both  De  Soto  and  Jan  do  Laet  when  describing  the  ripe  fruit  of 
the  native  persimmon  call  it  a  "delicious  little  plum,"  and  John 
Smith  and  other  writers  of  the  seventeenth  century  speak  of  it  as  a 
plum  with  the  flavor  of  an  apricot.  This  use  of  the  word  "plum" 
doubtless  directed  the  attention  of  many  people  to  the  native  species 
of  Prunus,  which  include  our  wild  cherries  and  plums. 

BOTANICAL  CLASSIFICATION. 

The  persimmon  belongs  to  the  ebony  family  (Ebenacege)  and  is 
known  to  botanists  as  Diospyros  virginiana.  It  is  the  only  member 
of  the  family  which  is  indigenous  to  any  extensive  portion  of  this 
country. 

NATURAL  DISTRIBUTION  OF  THE  PERSIMMON. 

Roughly  speaking,  the  persimmon  is  indigenous  to  the  south- 
eastern quarter  of  the  United  States,  being  found  in  large  numbers 


THE    NATIVE   PERSIMMON. 


in  the  fields  and  forests  of  that  section.     The  more  favored  localities  SI_ 
^  in  Iowa  and  eastern  Nebraska  produce  many  fruits,  but  very 

trees  are  found  west  of  central  Kansas.     Scattering  specimens 
-  Connecticut  and  on  Long  Island  mark  the  present  northeastern 
limit  of  the  species.     A  few  trees  in  Rhode  Island,  New  York,  and 
Michigan  which  produce  fairly  well  indicate  that  the  northern  limit 
of   cultivation    may   be    extended 
whenever  economic  conditions  (that 
is,  the  value  of  the  fruit  for  food  or 
of  the  tree  for  ornamental  purposes) 
seem  to  warrant. 

The  zone  of  greatest  productivity 
and  adaptability,  wherein  appear 
by  far  the  largest  number  of  prom- 
ising types,  extends  from  Maryland, 
Virginia,  and  the  Carolinas  west- 
ward through  Missouri  and  Arkan- 
sas. The  persimmon  thrives  equally 
well  on  the  sands  of  the  Coastal 
Plain,  the  shales  of  the  Allegheny 
Mountains,  the  muck  of  the  river- 
bottom  lands,  and  the  chert  of  the 
Ozarks. 

GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP  THE 
PERSIMMON. 

HABIT  OF  GROWTH. 

Throughout   the   habitat  of   the 
.  persimmon  there  is  a  wide  variation 
I    in  the  size  and  growth  of  the  trees 
J  and  in  the  form,  size,  color,  and 
number  of  seeds  of  the  fruit.     The 
tree   characters   seem    to    indicate 
{wo  types,  upright    and  drooping, 
and    these    tree   typos   are  closely 
Allied  with  the  fruit  types. 
^   When  grown  in  the  open,  persim- 
mon trees  rarely  reach  a  height  of 

50  feet.  In  a  dense  forest  growth  they  sometimes  reach  70  or  100 
^  feet,  but  that  is  uncommon.  The  characteristic  checking  of  the 
3 bark  of  an  old  tree,  which  is  shown  in  figure  I,  aids  one  to  recognize 
jthe  species.  The  top  of  the  tree  is  usually  roundish  or  conical  in 
R  form.  Large  trees  are  often  somewhat  irregular,  owing  to  the 

§  breaking  of  limbs  by  heavy  crops  of  fruit;  moreover,  it  is  a  character- 
istic of  productive  trees  to  prune  themselves  by  dropping  many  of  the 
fruit-bearing  twigs.  The  branches  are  always  spreading,  often 


FIG.  1.— An  old  persimmon  tree  which  shows 
the  characteristic  checking  of  the  bark. 


233215 


FARMERS'  BULLETIN  685. 


coming  out  almost  at  right  angles  to  the  trunk  and  then  drooping 
more  or  less,  especially  after  the  tree  has  borne  a  few  crops. 

The  leaves  are  elliptical  or  slightly  ovate  in  form,  acuminate  at  the 
apex,  measuring  from  3  to  6  inches  in  length  and  1  to  3  inches  in 
width,  with  a  short  petiole.  In  color,  they  are  a  dark  glossy  green 
on  the  upper  surface  and  a  grayish  green  underneath.  Trees  differ 
markedly,  however,  in  habits  of  growth,  as  is  shown  in  figures  2,  3, 
and  4. 

FLOWERING  HABIT. 

The  flowers  resemble  little  four-lipped  urns  of  wax,  from  one-fourth 
to  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  length,  the  color  varying  from  a  greenish 

yellow  to  a  milky 
white.  They  are 
borne  on  short  stalks 
and  appear  from  the 
last  of  April  in  the 
extreme  South  until 
the  middle  of  June 
at  the  northern  limit 
of  the  persimmon 
habitat. 

The  trees  are  gen- 
erally dioecious;  that 
is,  the  pollen-bearing 
and  fruit-producing 
flowers  are  borne  on 
separate  trees.  The 
pistillate  or  fruit- 
producing  flowers  are 
borne  singly,  while 
the  staminate  or  pol- 
len -  bearing  flowers 
are  generally  pro- 
duced in  threes.  The 
pollen  is  very  light 
and  powdery,  and 
while  it  is  generally  distributed  by  the  bees  that  frequent  the  trees 
in  great  numbers  during  blossoming  time  it  can  also  be  carried  to 
great  distances  by  the  wind. 

FRUIT  CHARACTERS. 

The  fruit  is  a  true  berry,  containing  sometimes  as  many  as  eight 
seeds  in.  its  pale,  translucent  flesh.  It  varies  in  form  from  oblate  to 
oblong  and  in  diameter  from  three-fourths  of  an  inch  to  2  inches, 

"-*>* 


FIG.  2.— A  persimmon  tree  of  the  upright  type  which  produces  large, 
oblate  fruits  and  is  here  used  as  a  dooryard  tree. 


THE    NATIVE    PERSIMMOX. 


There  is  a  wide  range  in  color,  varying  from  yellow  to  pale  orange 
and  even  to  a  dark  red,  with  many  varietal  markings,  often  blushed 
and  covered  with  a  bluish  bloom.  When  green,  persimmons  are  gen- 
erally very  astringent  and  puckery,  because  of  the  large  quantity  of 
tannin  contained  in  the  flesh,  but  when  thoroughly  mature  and  ripe 
the  flavor  is  rich  and  sweet,  and  the  consistency  varies  between  that 
of  a  baked  apple  and  a  soft  custard.  The  fruits  of  many  late  varieties 

turn  a  rich  dark  red     ( 

and  partially  dry  on 
the  trees,  somewhat 
resembling  dates  in 
appearance  and  fla- 
vor. 

POSSIBILITIES  OF  IM- 
PROVEMENT. 

The  season  of  the 
native  persimmon  is 
probably  longer  than 
that  of  any  other  wild 
fruit,  both  locally  and 
over  the  country  as  a 
whole.  In  many  sec- 
tions the  earliest  and 
the  latest  varieties 
may  be  found  grow- 
ing side  by  side,  or 
at  least  within  a  few 
miles  of  each  other. 
The  Bureau  of  Plant 
Industry  has  records 
for  both  early  and 
late  varieties  from  the 
southern  part  of  Georgia  and  Florida.  In  the  District  of  Columbia 
there  are  some  trees  which  ripen  their  fruit  in  August  and  others  on 
which  it  hangs  until  February. 

Generally  speaking,  the  best  fruits  are  neither  the  earliest  nor  the  - 
latest,  but  rather  those  that  ripen  just  before  the  beginning  of  the 
tree's  dormant  season.  The  latest  varieties  are  still  immature  when 
the  leaves  fall  or  when  they  are  killed  by  frost,  and  they  must  com- 
plete the  ripening  process  within  themselves  instead  of  drawing 
nourishment  from  the  tree  until  they  have  grown  to  maturity. 

The  largest  as  well  as  the  best  fruits  are  those  that  ripen  about  the 
time  the  trees  shed  their  leaves.  The  early  varieties  are  nearly  all 
medium  in  size,  and  the  late  varieties  which  hang  on  until  cold  weather 

OF  SUBTROPICAL  tK)*flCULTUf* 
COLLEGE  OF  A3RICULTIH* 
BERKELEY,  CALIFOWK 


FIG.  3.— A  persimmon  tree  of  upright  habit  of  growth  which  pro- 
duces fruit  of  the  pjriform  type,  ripening  in  midseason. 


6 


FARMERS'  BULLETIN  685. 


are  generally  small.     Seedless  fruits,  as  a  rule,  are  smaller  and  earlier 
than  those  with  seeds  produced  on  the  same  trees. 

The  wide  variations  shown  by  the  fruit  hi  size,  color,  season  of 
maturity,  and  tendency  to  seedlessness,  and  by  the  trees  hi  size, 
shape,  and  vegetative  vigor  indicate  the  possibility  of  greatly  im- 
proving the  native  persimmon.  Up  to  the  present  time  one  essential 
factor  has  been  overlooked  in  all  attempts  at  breeding  better  varieties. 
That  factor  is  the  parentage  of  the  male  or  pollen-bearing  trees. 
Without  a  knowledge  of  the  characters  represented  in  the  male 
parent  there  is  no  certainty  as  to  the  results  of  the  crossing  and  no 
possibility  of  the  line  breeding  which  is  essential  to  the  rapid  develop- 
ment of  improved  varieties.  Definite  efforts  should  be  made  in 

breeding  work  to  se- 
cure pollen  -  bearing 
trees  of  known  par- 
entage. They  should 
be  selected  from 
among  trees  grown 
from  seed  produced 
on  the  most  desirable 
fruit-bearing  trees. 

PRESENT  STATUS  OF 
THE  NATIVE  PER- 
SIMMON. 

Throughout  the  re- 
gion where  persim- 
mons are  found  in 
abundance  the  fruit 
is  considered  as  being 
"good  for  dogs,  hogs, 
and  'possums."  Oc- 
casionally a  family 
is  mentioned  as  hav- 
ing lived  for  several 
months  upon  the  fruit 
from  a  single  large 
tree.  Twenty  or  thirty  nurserymen  are  selling  seedling  trees  for 
ornamental  planting  and  half  a  dozen  others  have  selected  named 
varieties  of  special  merit  which  they  offer  for  the  production  of 
fruit. 

In  some  of  the  large  cities  and  towns  within  the  persunmon  habitat, 
the  wild  fruit  can  be  purchased  during  the  autumn  and  early  winter 
from  the  dealers  who  occupy  the  open  stalls  in  the  public  markets. 
A  few  enterprising  growers  adjacent  to  large  cities  have  built  up  a 
demand  which  they  find  themselves  unable  to  supply. 


FIG.  4. — A  persimmon  tree  which  has  a  drooping  habit  of  growth  and 
produces  fruit  of  the  oblong  type. 


THE    NATIVE   PERSIMMON.  7 

The  methods  of  utilizing  the  persimmon  are  at  present  rather 
limited.  Fresh  fruit  is  used  in  various  ways — in  making  a  few  forms 
of  bread  or  pone,  in  preparing  certain  homemade  beverages  and 
sweetmeats,  and  as  forage  for  the  hogs  and  dogs  which  get  most  of 
their  living  from  the  woods. 

The  object  of  this  publication  is  to  set  forth  the  best  methods  of 
propagating  and  cultivating  persimmon  trees,  to  call  attention  to  the 
many  trees  worthy  of  propagation,  to  indicate  the  food  value  of  the 
fruit,  and  to  enumerate  various  ways  in  which  persimmons  may  be 
prepared. 

PROPAGATION  OF  THE  PERSIMMON. 

As  is  the  case  with  most  tree  fruits,  the  persimmon  does  not  repro- 
duce its  varietal  characteristics  through  the  seed,  and  other  methods 
of  propagation  are,  therefore,  necessary  to  perpetuate  desirable  vari- 
eties. Propagation  of  the  persimmon  by  the  methods  commonly  em- 
ployed with  tree  fruits  is  more  difficult  than  for  such  fruits  as  the 
apple  or  the  peach.  The  methods  described  below  have  been  found 
successful  in  actual  practice. 

SEEDAGE. 

The  seeds  of  the  persimmon  are  scattered  by  mammals  and  birds 
and  in  the  natural  sequence  of  events  reach  the  ground  in  the  fall  or 
winter  without  becoming  dry.  They  are  lightly  covered  with  grass 
or  leaves  and  are  subjected  to  the  varying  temperatures  of  winter, 
always  remaining  moist.  The  following  spring  the  seeds  sprout  as 
soon  as  the  soil  becomes  warm  enough,  provided  that  the  conditions 
accompanying  the  rise  in  temperature  do  not  dry  them  unduly. 
Seeds  which  fall  under  the  trees  are  usually  too  much  exposed  to  the 
atmosphere  and  dry  too  much  to  admit  of  germination. 

Seeds  that  are  gathered  for  propagating  purposes  should  be  strati- 
fied at  once.  If  they  are  allowed  to  dry  out  it  is  often  necessary  to 
soak  them  for  two  or  three  days  before  they  are  planted;  the  water 
being  renewed  each  day  at  a  boiling  temperature. 

The  seed  bed  in  which  persimmon  seedlings  are  grown  should  be 
located  on  well-drained  land  where  the  soil  is  rather  light  and  well 
supplied  with  humus.  The  ground  should  be  plowed  deep  with  a 
subsoil  plow  unless  the  subsoil  is  friable  enough  to  permit  the  ready 
penetration  of  the  long  taproots  which  characterize  the  growth  of 
persimmon  seedlings. 

The  seed  may  be  planted  either  in  the  fall  or  spring,  after  being 
treated  as  described  above.  It  is  commonly  planted  in  shallow  drills 
and  lightly  covered  with  soil  to  a  depth  of  one-half  inch  or  a  little 
more. 


FARMERS'  BULLETIN  GPS. 


ROOT    CUTTINGS. 


The  roots  of  persimmon  trees  sprout  readily  when  the  top  is  re- 
moved or  when  the  main  stem  meets  with  serious  injury.  This  is 
illustrated  in  figure  5,  which  shows  the  development  of  sprouts  on 
the  roots  of  a  seedling  tree  two  months  after  the  removal  of  the  top. 

During  this  period  the 
seedling  had  been  in 
a  propagating  bed  in 
a  greenhouse,  under 
artificial  heat.  This 
illustration  also  offers 
an  explanation  for  the 
occurrence  of  the  large 
clumps  of  similar  trees 
that  are  to  be  found 
in  many  abandoned 
fields.  At  some  time 
the  original  tree  was 
cut  off  near  the  surface 
of  the  ground  and  the 
roots  sent  up  sprouts 
which,  being  undis- 
turbed, developed  into 
trees  bearing  similar 
fruit. 

Roots  the  size  of  a 
lead  pencil  or  larger 
can  be  used  in  propa- 
gating the  persim- 
mon. They  should  be 
cut  into  pieces  6  or  8 
inches  long,  the  ends 

FIG.  5.— A  2-year-old  seedling  persimmon  tree  which  has  been  grafted.      Sealed     with    grafting 
It  has  been  in  a  propagating  bed  in  a  greenhouse  under  artificial      "wax    hot  beeswax,  Or 

pitch,  in  order  to  pre- 
vent the  decay  that 
develops  rapidly  in  the  soft,  spongy  wood,  and  the  cuttings  should 
then  be  buried  over  winter  in  sand  or  in  a  nursery  row.  They  will 
grow  readily  the  following  spring,  provided  the  moisture  supply  is 
plentiful  until  they  become  weh1  established. 

WOOD    CUTTINGS. 

Cuttings  of  the  branches  may  be  treated  in  much  the  same  way  as 
root  cuttings.  Small  twigs  are  unsuitable  for  purposes  of  propaga- 


heat  for  two  months.    The  sprouts  on  the  roots  show  how  easily 
the  roots  may  be  used  as  a  means  of  propagating  the  variety. 


THE    NATIVE    PERSIMMON.  9 

tion  (1)  because  they  lack  sufficient  substance  k>  produce  the 
callus  and' root  formation  and  (2)  because  it  is  extremely  difficult 
to  prevent  the  organisms  of  decay  from  entering  the  soft,  porous, 
1-year-old  wood.  The  cuttings  should  be  waxed  or  pitched  at  both 
ends  and  buried  until  well  callused  and  the  roots  have  started. 
They  may  then  be  planted  in  a  nursery  row  and  vegetative  growth, 
encouraged. 

Wood  2  or  3  years  old  may  be  selected  for  cuttings,  but  care  must 
be  exercised  to  procure  good,  strong  buds.  The  cuttings  may  be 
taken  at  any  time  after  the  trees  become  dormant  in  the  fall  and 
may  be  placed  in  cold  storage  or  in  sand  until  wanted.  -It  is  most 
important,  however,  that  the  ends  of  the  cuttings  should  be  dipped 
immediately  into  melted  wax  in  order  to  exclude  the  air.  If  they 
have  been  exposed  for  even  a  few  hours  they  should  be  retrimmed 
and  waxed  before  being  put  in  cold  storage  or  sand. 


Those  who  have  trees  bearing  exceptionally  fine  persimmons  will 
find  the  different  methods  of  grafting  admirally  adapted  to  top- 
working  the  worthless  trees  about  the  place  with  the  better  varieties, 
thus  changing  them  to  useful  fruitfulness. 

Top-worked,  or  grafted,  portions  of  old  trees  will  bear  two  or  three 
years  earlier  than  trees  which  come  from  buds  or  grafts  on  1  or  2 
year  old  stocks.  These  seedling  stocks,  budded  or  grafted  with 
a  selected  variety,  will  bear  one  or  two  years  earlier  than  those  pro- 
duced from  cuttings. 

The  scions  to  be  used  in  chip  budding,  cleft  grafting,  and  whip 
grafting  should  be  cut  during  late  winter."  All  scions  should  be  kept 
cool  and  moist  until  used.  The  budding  and  grafting  should  be 
done  as  soon  as  the  trees  which  are  to  be  grafted  start  to  grow. 

Because  of  the  similarity  in  the  operations  of  budding  and  grafting 
they  are  here  treated  together  under  the  general  heading  of  graftage. 
The  various  methods  which  have  been  found  to  be  best  adapted  to 
the  persimmon  are  here  discussed. 


SELECTION-    OF    SCION'S    AND    BUD    STICKS. 


When  selecting  scions  or  bud  sticks  care  must  be  exercised,  just  as 
when  propagating  by  wood  cuttings,  to  procure  wood  with  strong, 
well-developed  buds.  On  twigs  of  the  last  season's  growth  the  best 
buds  are  generally  near  the  base,  where  they  are  supported  on  more 
mature  wood  than  those  near  the  tip.  In  wood  more  than  a  year 
old,  most  of  the  buds  near  the  tip  have  already  produced  branches, 
thus  making  this  portion  of  the  twig  unsuitable  for  use  in  budding 
or  grafting. 

The  method  employed  in  budding  persimmons  largely  determines 
the  character  of  the  wood  that  should  be  selected  as  a  source  of  buds. 
2352°— Bull.  685—15 2 


10 


FARMERS '   BULLETIN   685. 


For  the  common  shield  or  T  bud,  the  basal  half  of  the  new  growth 
is  preferable  because  the  bark  is  thinner  than  that  on  .older  wood 
and  the  buds  fit  closer  and  better  than  where  wood  with  older  and 
thicker  bark  is  used.  Moreover,  the  buds  near  the  base  of  the  new 
wood  are  better  than  those  toward  the  tip,  because  the  latter  are  so 
irregular  in  outline  that  it  is  difficult  to  fit  them  closely  to  the  stock. 
When  the  chip-bud  method  is  used  it  is  essential  that  the  bud 
stick  have  sufficient  body  to  allow  the  removal  of  the  bud  with  a 
clean,  solid  chip  adhering  thereto.  A  bud  stick  should  never  be 
larger  than  the  stock  on  which  the  buds  are  to  be  worked.  If  it  is 
too  large  in  relation  to  the  size  of  the  stock  which  is  to  receive  the 
bud,  the  chip  will  be  so  broad  and  flat  that  it  can  not  be  properly 

fitted  into  any  notch  which  it  is 
possible  to  make  in  the  stock. 

For  annular  or  patch  budding, 
the  most  satisfactory  buds  are 
those  taken  from  wood  that  is 
2,  3,  or  even  4  years  old.  Such 
buds  are  but  lightly  attached  to 
the  wood  and  have  a  good  body 
of  bark,  which  makes  them  easy 
to  handle  and  not  liable  to  dry 
out.  Buds  taken  from  near  the 
base  of  large,  vigorous,  new  shoots 
will  also  give  good  results. 

The  various  methods  of  bud- 
ding   and    grafting     that     have 
FK.6.-The  different  steps  in  shield  or  T  budding:    proved  satisfactory  in  propagat- 

a,  Cutting  the  bud;  6,  preparing  the  stock;  c,  in-     mcr  the  persimmon  have  been  de- 
serting the  bud;  d,  tying.  .,       ,    .       ,         .,    .  ,,.         . 

scribed  in  detail  m  publications 

of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  relating  to  other  fruits  and  to  nuts. 
For  convenience  in  the  present  connection,  extracts  from  these  pub- 
lications are  inserted  below. 

SHIELD   OR    "T"    BUDDING.1 

The  height  at  which  buds  are  inserted  [where  small  seedling  stocks  are  used]  varies 
with  the  operator.  In  general,  the  nearer  the  ground  the  better.  The  cut  for  the 
reception  of  the  bud  is  made  in  the  shape  of  a  letter  T.  (Fig.  6,  6.)  Usually  the 
crosscut  is  not  quite  at  right  angles  with  the  body  of  the  tree,  and  the  stem  to  the  T 
starts  at  the  crosscut  and  extends  toward  the  root  for  an  inch  or  more.  The  flaps  of 
bark  caused  by  the  intersection  of  the  two  cuts  are  slightly  loosened  with  the  ivory 
heel  of  the  budding  knife,  and  the  bud,  grasped  by  the  leaf  stem  as  a  handle,  is  placed 
under  the  flaps  and  firmly  pushed  in  place  until  its  cut  surface  is  entirely  in  contact 
with  the  peeled  body  of  the  stock.  (Fig.  6,  c.)  A  ligature  is  then  tightly  drawn 
about,  above,  and  below  the  bud,  to  hold  it  in  place  until  a  imion  shall  be  formed. 


»  Corbett,  L.  C.    The  propagation  of  plants.    Farmers'  Bulletin  157,  pp.  22-23. 


THE    NATIVE    PERSIMMON. 


11 


(Fig.  6,  d.)  Bands  of  raffia  about  8  or  10  inches  long  make  a  most  convenient  tying 
material.  As  soon  as  the  buds  have  united  with  the  stock  the  ligature  should  be  cut, 
in  order  to  prevent  girdling  the  stock.  This  done,  the  operation  is  complete  until  the 
following  spring,  when  all  the  trees  in  which  the  buds  have  "taken"  should  have  the 
top  cut  off  just  above  the  bud. 

Shield  budding  may  be  done  at  any  time  when  the  trees  are  in 
vigorous  growth  and  when  well-matured  buds  of  the  current  season's 
growth  can  be  obtained.  This  period  usually  extends  from  July  to 
September.  When  budding  seedlings  it  may  sometimes  be  necessary 
to  delav  the  operation  until  the  latter  part  of  the  season,  in  order  that 
the  stock  may  develop  to  a  satisfactory  size;  but  when  top-working 
older  trees  by  this  method  well- 
developed  buds  may  be  handled 
whenever  the  trees  are  in  a  vigor- 
ous condition  of  growth.  Figure  7 
shows  a  branch  of  a  young  per- 
simmon tree  on  which  a  shield 
or  T  bud  has  made  considerable 
growth. 

Some  of  the  precautions  which 
it  has  been  found  important  to 
observe  when  propagating  pecans 
are  equally  applicable  in  the  prop- 
agation of  persimmons.  The 
following  directions  for  budding 
pecans  according  to  the  various 
methods  arc  therefore  presented 
here.1 


ANNULAR    BUDDING. 


FIG.  7.— A  shield  or  T  bud  after  considerable  growth 


The  process  [of  annular  budding]  is  also 
known  as  "ring"  and  "flute"  budding. 
It  is  performed  during  the  midsummer  months  at  such  time  as  the  bark  is  found  to  slip 
(release)  most  readily.  In  some  seasons  this  period  may  be  very  brief,  lasting  only  a 
few  days,  while  in  other  years  the  time  during  which  annular  budding  may  be  success- 
fully performed  extends  over  a  period  of  several  months.  In  the  latitude  of  southern 
Georgia  it  is  not  uncommon  for  this  method  to  be  successful  from  as  early  as  May  10 
until  late  in  July  or  even  in  August. 

Annular  budding  consists  merely  in  transferring  a  ring  of  bark  to  which  is  attached 
a  bud  of  the  desired  variety  from  a  bud  stick  2  to  the  trunk  or  branch  of  another  tree  in 
place  of  a  similar  ring  of  bark  previously  removed.  Specially  designed  tools  have 
been  devised  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  the  rings.  Two  ordinary  propagating  knives 
having  single  blades  may  be  fastened  together  and  made  to  answer  the  purpose, 
although  they  are  less  liable  to  make  uniform  incisions.  Cut  a  ring  of  bark  from  the 
stock  with  one  of  the  tools,  slit  it  with  a  single-bladed  knife,  and  lift  from  its  bed  or 
"matrix,"  us  it  is  technically  called.  Discard  this  bark  and  from  the  bud  stick 

i  Reed,  C.  A.    The  pecan.    Bureau  of  Plant  Industry  Bulletin  251,  pp.  25-31. 
*  The  bud  stick  is  a  branch  cut  from  a  tree  of  the  variety  to  be  propagated. 


12 


FARMERS'  BULLETIN  685. 


remove  a  similar  ring,  in  the  center  of  which  is  a  dormant  bud.  The  bark  of  the  bud 
stick  should  be  slit  on  the  side  opposite  the  bud.  Immediately  place  this  ring  in  the 
space  left  by  removing  the  bark  from  the  stock  and  wrap  at  once  with  waxed  cloth, 
taking  care  not  to  cover  the  bud  (fig.  8). 

PATCH    BUDDING. 

AYhcn  the  annular  method  is  used  it  is  obvious  that  the  stock  and  scion  must  be  of 
nearly  the  same  size.     If  the  bud  stick  is  slightly  larger  than  the  stock  a  portion  of  the 

bark  to  which  the  bud  is 
attached  may  be  cut  away 
so  that  the  two  ends  of 
the  ring  just  meet  around 
the  stock.  If  the  bud  stick 
should  be  smaller  than  the 
stock,  a  strip  of  bark  on  the 
latter  may  be  left  in  posi- 
tion to  complete  the  ring. 
In  actual  practice,  rings 
which  extend  only  partly 
around  the  stock  are  most 
commonly  used.  Such 
process,  however,  is  not 
true  annular  budding,  be- 
cause any  bark  which  ex- 
tends only  partly  around 
the  stock  ismerely  apatch. 
It  is  to  this  deviation  from 
the  annular  method  of 
budding  that  the  term 
"patch budding  "has  been 
applied.  A  tool  specially 
designed  for  patch  bud- 
ding consists  of  four  thin 
steel  blades  fastened  to- 
gether in  the  form  of  a 
rectangle,  five-eighths  of 
an  inch  wide  by  1  inch 
long,  and  is  used  as  a 
punch. 

A  cut  is  made  in  the  bark 
of  the  bud  stick  about  half 

Ct  C  ''"B        &  n  o  />    ,/L_         an  inch  in  width  by  three 

times  as  long,  in  the  cen- 
ter of  which  is  the  bud. 
The  piece  of  bark  so  out- 
lined is  removed  from  the 
bud  stick  and  laid  over 


FIG.  8.— Annular  budding,  a,  Bud  stick  from  which  the  bud  has 
been  removed;  b,  the  bud  ready  for  insertion  in  the  matrix  of  the 
stock;  c,  the  slock  reidy  to  receive  the  bud;  d,  the  bud  after  being 
placed  in  posit  ion  and  carefully  wrapped;  e,  growth  taking  place,  the 
wrapping  having  been  removed;  /,  growth  from  the  bud  supported 
by  being  tied  to  the  stock  (<;)  above  the  union.  Note  the  scars  above 
the  union,  where  the  buds  were  removed  hi  order  to  direct  the  flow 
of  sap  to  the  new  bud. 


that  of  the  stock.  Using 
this  as  a  pattern,  incisiona 
are  then  made  around  it 
in  the  bark  of  the  stock. 
The  pattern  is  then  removed,  the  section  of  bark  outlined  in  the  stock  is  lifted, 
and  the  bark  from  the  bud  stick  is  put  in  its  place.  Some  varieties  of  the  pecan  are 
more  difficult  to  bud  successfully  than  others;  with  such  varieties  the  annular  method, 
or  a  near  approarh  to  it,  is  generally  most  successful. 

"With    the  average  sorts,  however,   the    tendency   among   the  more   experienced 
nurserymen  is  much  inclined  to  favor  the  patch  method. 


THE   NATIVE   PERSIMMON. 


13 


The  buds  best  suited  to  annular  or  patch  budding  are  those  in  the  axils  of 
the  leaves  at  the  base  of  the  current  season's  growth.  It  is  well  worth  the  time 
required  to  clip  the  leaves  away,  close  to  the  buds,  10  days  or  2  weeks  before 
the  bud  is  wanted,  for  by  so  doing  the  wound  will  heal  over  before  the  bud  is 
needed;  otherwise  a  serioils  lessening  of  the  vigor  of  the  bud  through  evapora- 
tion may  take  place. 

CARE    OF    ANNULAR    AND   PATCH    BUDS. 

In  annular  budding  the  added  ring  of  bark  sometimes  unites  with  the  stock  promptly, 
permitting  the  upward  flow  of  sap  to  proceed  without  much  interference.  When  this 
is  the  case  the  top  should  be  carefully  pruned  back  to  such  a  degree  as  is  necessary  to 
direct  sufficient  sap  into  the  new  bud  to  cause  it  to  swell.  This  pruning  should  not 
be  done  with  too  great  severity,  as  an  oversupply  of  sap  is  liable  to  accumulate  under 
the  bark  of  the  new  bud  and  cause  it  to  decay,  or,  as  it  is  termed.  "  to  drown  "  the  bud. 
If  the  tree  is  young  and  the 
growth  has  been  rapid,  pre- 
caution should  be  exercised 
in  cutting  back  the  top,  in 
order  not  to  expose  the  ten- 
der bark  to  the  heat  of  the 
sun.  A  sufficient  amount  of 
foliage  should  be  left  as  a 
protection  from  the  hot  sun. 
If  the  supply  of  sap  be  lim- 
ited, it  will  be  well  to  cut 
out  all  buds  in  the  top  of 
the  stock,  as  shown  in  figure 
8.  All  dormant  buds,  both 
above  and  below  the  new 
bud,  should  be  rubbed  off 
as  soon  as  they  begin  to 
swell.  The  wrapping  about 
the  new  bud  must  be  cut  as 
soon  as  growth  begins.  As 
the  union  of  a  bud  with  a 
stock  made  by  any  method 
of  budding  is  at  first  merely 
the  uniting  together  of  bark 
and  not  of  wood,  it  is  neces- 
sarily weak  during  the  first 
few  months.  To  avoid  dan- 
ger of  breaking  out  at  the 
bud,  the  new  tops  should  be 
provided  with  extra  support. 
For  this  purpose  side  stakes 


a 


'dormant"  budding,  a,  The  bud  stick;  6,  the 
bud  ready  for  insertion;  c,  the  bud  inserted  in  the  matrix  of  the 
stock;  d,  the  bud  securely  tier!  in  place. 


driven  into  the  ground  are 

sometimes  used,  but  these 

are  expensive  and  unneces-  FlG-  9.— Chip  or 

sary.     By  leaving  a  stub  of 

the  original  top  8  or  10  inches 

long,  entirely  denuded  of  foliage  (fig.  8),  the  new  top  may  be  quickly  tied  to  it,  and 

when  no  longer  needed  the  dead  stub  may  be  cut  away  close  to  the  union. 

CHIP    BUDDING. 

Propagation  by  chip  budding  is  performed  in  the  early  spring  or  late  in  the  dormant 
period.     Because  of  being  done  at  this  season  it  is  also  known  as  "  dormant "  budding. 

DIVISION  OF  SUHiROPlCAl  HOHTICULT 
lEGE  OF  AGRICULTURE 


14 


FARMERS     BULLETIN 


With  a  sharp  knife  a  downward  cut  is  made  below  the  bud  on  the  bud  stick  to  a  depth 
of  perhaps  one-eighth  of  an  inch.  Raising  the  knife  to  a  point  above  the  bud,  a  long 
downward  cut  is  made,  which  meets  the  lower  end  of  the  first  cut,  and  the  bud  is 
removed  with  a  chip  attached,  as  shown  in  figure  9.  A  similar  chip  is  removed  from 
the  stock,  and  the  desired  bud  is  put  in  its  place.  This  should  be  carefully  wrapped 
with  such  material  as  will  hold  the  cambium  layers  of  the  stock  and  the  bud  firmly 
together  on  at  least  one  side. 

Subsequent  treatment  similar  to  that  already  described  for  annular  and  patch  bud- 
ding should  be  given  young  trees  propagated  in  this  summer. 

Trees  of  the  pecan  species  are  difficult  to  propagate  asexually ;  that  is,  neither  buds 
nor  scions  "take"  with  the  readiness  of  ordinary  fruit  trees.  The  inexperienced 


FIG.  10. — A  chip  bud  on  a  branch  after  the  bud 
inserted  had  made  considerable  growth. 

operator,  therefore,  must  expect  a  very  low 
percentage  of  living  buds  as  the  result  of  his 
first  attempts.  Skilled  propagators,  how- 
ever, are  now  so  successful  that  under  favor- 
able conditions  the  percentage  of  failures  is 
no  longer  a  matter  of  consequence. 

No  attempt  to  bud  pecans  should  be  made 
on  rainy  days,  or  in  early  mornings  follow- 
ing heavy  dews.  Some  nurserymen  even  go 
so  far  as  to  select  their  men  for  budding  the 
pecan,  assigning  those  who  perspire  most 
freely  to  other  duties.  Extremely  hot  days  should  be  avoided,  especially  if  accom- 
panied by  drying  winds.  Moderately  cool,  cloudy  days  without  wind  or  rain  are  the 
best  for  pecan  budding. 


FIG.  11.— Method  of  using  a  bud  protector  on  a 
chip  bud.  The  protector  may  be  used  in  a 
similar  manner  in  all  of  the  different  forms 
of  budding.  A,  stock;  B,  B,  waxed  cloth 
protectors;  C,  chip  bud  fitted  into  notch  in 
stock;  D,  protect  or  in  position  over  the  bud; 

E,  protector  and   bud  wrapped  and  tied; 

F,  F,  scars  of  buds  removed    from    stock. 
(Adapted  from  drawing  in  American  Fruit 
and  Nut  Journal,  vol.  6,  whole  no.  94,  p.  23.) 


THE    NATIVE   PERSIMMON. 


15 


Figure  10  shows  a  persimmon  chip  bud  which  has  made  consider- 
able growth. 

PROTECTION    OF    BUDS. 

A  very  satisfactory  means  of  affording  protection  to  buds  inserted 
by  any  of  the  foregoing  methods  is  shown  in  figure  1 1 .  These  waxed 
shields  are  intended  as  a  substitute  for  the  waxed  strips  previously 
mentioned,  and  their  preparation  and  use  has  been  described  as 
follows  :* 

In  making  the  waxed  wrappers,  old  domestic  from  worn  bed  sheets  or  undergarments 
may  be  used .  Tear  it  into  strips  2  feet  long  and  6  inches  wide ;  then  fold  it  into  squares 
and  dip  it  into  a  tin  plate  of  hot,  melted  beeswax.  The  wax  will  strike  through 
instantly,  and  then  the  strips  may  be  held  up  by  one  end  and  the  surplus  wax  allowed 
to  drip  back  into  the  tin  plate.  When  cool,  the  cloth  may  be  torn  into  *  *  * 
squares  of  proper  size.  No  pressing  or  squeezing  is  necessary.  The  beeswax  answers 
the  purpose  in  every  way;  its  saves  the  buds,  and  that  is  the  end  in  view.  These 


FIG.  12.— Cleft  graft:  a,  Stock  being  split  by  spe- 
cial grafting  tool;  6,  scion  ready  for  insertion; 
c,  scion  in  place  ready  for  waxing. 

wrappers  may  be  left  on  the  buds  the 
whole  season.  When  the  bud  shoots  are 
an  inch  or  so  in  length,  the  strings  may 
be  unwound  from  so  much  of  the  wrap- 
pers as  cover  the  buds;  but  tie  the  upper 
end  of  the  wrapper,  which  is  above  the 
bud,  firmly  to  the  projecting  stub.  The 
eyelets2  in  the  wrappers  will  open  as  the 
bud  shoots  grow,  and  protection  will  be 
afforded  against  hot  suns  and  chilly 
nights. 

CLEFT   GRAFTING.3 

This    style    of    graft    is     particularly 
adapted    to   large    trees    when   for  any 
reason  it  becomes  necessary  to  change 
the  variety.     Branches  too  large  to  be  worked  by  other  methods  can   be  cleft- 
grafted. 

A  branch  1  or  1£  inches  in  diameter  is  severed  with  a  saw.  Care  should  be  taken 
that  the  bark  be  not  loosened  from  any  portion  of  the  stub.  Split  the  exposed  end 
with  a  broad,  thin  chisel  or  grafting  tool  (fig.  12,  a).  Then  with  a  wedge  or  the  wedge- 
shaped  prong  at  the  end  of  the  grafting  tool  spread  the  cleft  so  that  the  scions  (fig.  12,  b) 
may  be  inserted  (fig.  12,  c). 

>  American  Fruit  and  Nut  Journal,  v.  6,  no.  94,  p.  22. 

2  The  eyelet  referred  to  is  the  small  hole  in  the  center  of  the  protector  shown  in  figure  11. 

a  Corbett,  L.  C.    The  propagation  of  plants.    Farmer's  Bulletin  157,  pp.  17-18. 


FIG.  13.— A  cleft  graft  made  on  a  small  branch. 


16 


FABMEBS     BULLETIN   685. 


The  scion  should  consist  of  a  portion  of  the  previous  season's  growth  and  should  be 
long  enough  to  have  two  or  three  buds.  The  lower  end  of  the  scion,  which  is  to  be 
inserted  in  the  cleft,  should  be  cut  into  the  shape  of  a  wedge,  having  the  outer  edge 
thicker  than  the  other.  In  general,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  cut  the  scion  so  that  the  lowest 
bud  will  come  just  at  the  top  of  this  wedge,  so  that  it  will  be  near  the  top  of  the  stock. 
The  importance  of  having  an  intimate  connection  between  the  growing  tissues  of  both 
scion  and  stock  can  not  be  too  strongly  emphasized,  for  upon  this  alone  the  success  of 

grafting  depends.  To 
make  this  contact  of  the 
growing  portions  doubly 
certain,  the  scion  is  often 
set  at  a  slight  angle  with 
the  stock  into  which  it  is 
inserted,  in  order  to  cause 
the  growing  portions  of 
the  two  to  cross. 

After  the  scions  have 
been  set  the  operation  of 
rleft  grafting  is  completed 
by  covering  all  cut  sur- 
faces with  a  layer  of  graft- 
ing wax. 

Cleft  grafting  has 
given  satisfactory  re- 
sults with  the  per- 
simmon, hoth  on  the 
branches  (fig.  13)  and 
at  the  crown  (fig.  14). 

WHIP    GRAFTING.1 

Whip  grafting  is  the 
style  almost  universally 
used  in  root  grafting.  It 
has  1  ho  ad  vantage  of  being 
well  adapted  to  small 
plants. 

The  graft  is  made  by 
cutting  the  stock  off  diag- 
onally— one  long  smooth 
cut  with  a  sharp  knife,  as 
shown  in  figure  15,  a. 
Place  the  knife  about  one- 
third  of  tho  distance  from 
tho  end  of  the  cut  surface, 
at  right  angles  to  the  cut, 
and  split  the  stock  in  the 
direction  of  its  long  axis. 
Cut  the  lower  end  of  the 
scion  in  like  manner  (fig. 
15,  h),  and  when  the  two  parts  are  forced  together,  as  shown  in  figure  15,  c,  the  cut  surfaces 
will  fit  neatly  together,  and  one  will  nearly  cover  the  other  if  the  scion  and  stock  are  of 


Fig.  14.— A  cleft  graft  made  at  the  crown,  the  soil  which  normally 
covered  the  union  having  been  removed  in  order  to  Bhow  the  parts 
to  better  advantage. 


i  Corhett,  L.  0.    The  propagation  of  plants.    Farmers'  Bulletin  157,  pp.  18*19. 


THE    NATIVE    PERSIMMON. 


17 


the  same  size.  A  difference  in  diameter  of  the  two  parts  to  be  united  may  be  disre- 
garded unless  it  be  too  great.  After  the  scion  and  stock  have  been  locked  together,  as 
shown  in  figure  15,  c,  they  should  be  wrapped  with  five  or  six  turns  of  waxed  cotton 
to  hold  the  parts  firmly  together. 

While  top  grafting  may  be  done  in  this  way  (fig.  16),  it  is  in  root  grafting  that  the 
whip  graft  finds  its  distinctive  field.  When  the  roots  are  cut  into  lengths  of  2  to  5  or  6 
inches  to  be  used  as  stocks,  the  operation  is  known  as  piece-root  grafting.  Sometimes 
the  entire  root  is  used. 

In  ordinary  propagation  by  means  of  whip  grafts,  the  scion  is  cut  with  about  three 
buds,  and  the  stock  is  naarly  as  long  as  the  scion.  The  graft  is  so  planted  as  to  bring^ 
the  union  of  stock  and  scion  not  very  far  below  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

CARE    OF   WHIP    GRAFTS.1 

"  When  grafted  by  the  whip-graft  method  the  young  trees  will  require  little  subse- 
quent attention  other  than  pruning  and  ordinary  cultivation.  When  the  root  is  that 
of  a  very  young  tree  there  will  be  no  danger 
of  the  supply  of  plant  food  being  such  as  to 
induce  a  growth  of  top  that  is  too  rapid,  as  is 
frequently  the  case  with  cleft  grafts,  espe- 
cially in  the  tops  of  old  trees.  While  tempo- 
rary staking  as  a  support  to  the  union  is  not 
necessary,  in  numerous  cases  stakes  will  be 
highly  essential  to  insure  erect'growth.  The 
moisture  of  the  ground  causes  the  wrapping 
material  to  decay  in  the  course  of  a  few 
weeks,  and  it  is  therefore  not  necessary  to 
cut  the  bands. 

The  operation  of  grafting  most 
fruits  is  generally  successful  if  per- 
formed in  the  spring  when  the  trees 
are  still  dormant,  or  even  after 
growth  has  started  slightly,  provided 
the  scions  are  entirely  dormant.  In 
the  case  of  the  persimmon,  however, 
much  more  satisfactory  results  appear  to  be  obtained  when  the  graft- 
ing is  delayed  until  the  trees  have  definitely  started  into  new  growth. 
The  scions  must  be  kept  dormant. 

In  all  of  the  various  methods  of  budding  and  grafting  the  per- 
simmon it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  the  cut  surfaces  of  both 
bark  and  wood  be  protected  with  as  little  delay  as  possible  from 
chemical  change  due  to  exposure  to  the  air.  Protection  is  afforded 
by  covering  the  wounds  with  grafting  wax,  waxed  cloth,  or  similar 
devices. 

STOCKS  AND  NURSERY  TREES. 

The  stocks  in  the  nursery  row  should  stand  at  least  6  inches  apart, 
to  afford  space  for  root  development  and  to  give  the  workmen  plenty 
of  room  when  the  trees  are  budded  or  grafted.  The  young  trees 


FIG.  15.— Whip  graft:  a,  Stock  prepared;  6, 
scion  prepared;  c,  stock  and  sciori  fitted 
together  ready  for  tying. 


Reed,  C.  A.     The  pecan.    Bureau  of  Plant  Industry  Bulletin  251,  p.  25. 


18 


FARMEBS      BULLETIN    685. 


in  the  nursery  should  receive  fair  cultivation,  and  the  roots  should 
be  pruned  each  year  with  a  tree  digger  or  spade  in  order  to  keep  the 
root  system  small  enough  to  be  handled  with  ease  when  the  trees  are 
dug.  The  2-year-old  roots  are  always  preferable  for  stocks.  Older 
roots  which  are  small  enough  to  be  easily  handled  are  likely  to  be 


FIG.  16.— A  whip  graft  after  at- 
taining considerable  growth. 

stunted,  and  1 -year- 
old  roots  must  be  very 
thrifty  to  produce  the 
desired  growth  in  the 
graft. 


FIG.  17. — Persimmon  trees  after  making  one  season's  growth  in  the 
nursery.  These  trees  were  propagated  by  grafting  on  seedling 
stocks.  The  bundle  on  the  left  is  the  Golden  Gem  variety;  on  the 
right,  the  Miller.  The  largest  trees  are  4  to  5  feet  tall.  The  dif- 
ference in  the  size  of  the  trees  in  the  two  bundles  is  due  to  the  differ- 
ence in  the  natural  vigor  of  growth  of  these  two  sorts. 


Trees  which  have 
been  produced  under 
conditions  favorable 
for  development  may 
be  planted  in  their 
permanent  location  after  they  have  made  one  season's  growth  in  the 
nursery.  Some  varieties,  however,  are  much  more  vigorous  than  others. 
It  may  be  advisable  to  grow  the  weaker  sorts  in  the  nursery  for  two  years 


THE    NATIVE    PERSIMMON.  19 

before  transplanting  them.  Figure  17  shows  two  varieties  of  grafted 
persimmon  trees  that  have  made  one  season's  growth  in  the  nursery. 
On  account  of  the  very  long  taproot  which  persimmon  trees  ha- 
bitually develop,  particularly  when  propagated  on  seedling  stocks, 
much  care  must  be  exercised  to  avoid  undue  injury  to  the  root  sys- 
tems when  the  trees  are  dug  from  the  nursery.  Moreover,  because 
of  the  deep-rooting  habits  of  these  trees  a  deep  soil  should  be  selected 
for  their  permanent  location. 

CULTIVATION  OF  THE  PERSIMMON. 


The  transplanting  of  the  young  trees  may  be  done  at  any  time 
during  the  dormant  period,  from  late  autumn  to  early  spring,  when 
the  roots  can  be  protected  from  freezing  temperatures  and  evapora- 
tion and  when  the  soil  is  in  a  suitable  condition  for  handling.  If  the 
trees  have  been  properly  taken  up  without  undue  injury  to  the 
roots,  the  tops  will  need  little  or  no  pruning.  If,  on  the  other  hand, 
the  root  systems  have  been  severely  reduced,  the  tops  should  be 
headed  back  until  the  total  length  of  branches  and  trunks  corre- 
sponds in  a  general  way  to  the  total  length  of  the  main  roots.  Wounds 
on  both  tops  and  roots  should  be  waxed  as  soon  as  made. 

Young  persimmon  trees  have  large,  deep  root  systems  and  should 
be  planted  2  or  3  inches  deeper  in  the  orchard  than  they  were  in  the 
nursery  row.  In  setting  them  out  the  soil  should  be  packed  thor- 
oughly around  the  roots.  A  round-pointed  wooden  tamp  is  a  very 
serviceable  tool  with  which  to  make  the  earth  compact  as  the  hole 
is  filled  up.  The  planting  plan  varies  with  the  type  of  tree  desired. 
If  it  seems  desirable  to  grow  low-headed  trees  with  the  expectation 
of  producing  large  fruit  that  can  be  readily  picked  by  hand,  the  per- 
manent trees  should  be  placed  at  least  16  or,  better  still,  20  feet 
apart  each  way.  If,  however,  a  large  bulk  of  fruit  is  desired  as  stock 
feed  to  be  scraped  from  the  ground  or  picked  up  by  animals,  a  fair 
degree  of  success  may  be  expected  if  the  trees  are  planted  10  feet 
apart  each  way. 

TILLAGE. 

Probably  the  persimmon  can  be  more  successfully  intercropped 
than  any  other  fruit  tree,  owing  to  the  depth  of  its  root  system. 
Blackberries,  dewberries,  strawberries,  and  vegetables  thrive  very 
well  among  persimmons  until  the  shade  becomes  too  dense.  When 
the  trees  shade  the  ground,  it  is  best  to  seed  down  the  orchard  if  it 
is  to  be  used  as  a  run  for  chickens,  calves,  pigs,  or  other  animals  and 
the  fruit  used  as  stock  feed.  If  it  is  planned  to  produce  fruit  for 
market  purposes,  however,  the  same  cultivation  should  be  given  the 
ground  as  in  a  commercial  orchard  of  peach  or  other  fruit  trees. 

•WOK*  Of  SBMWWl  *>m 
COOK'  CULTUR€ 


BULLETIN   685. 


The  pruning  of  the  persimmon  varies  with  the  variety.  There  is 
a  tendency  for  the  tree  to  prune  itself,  as  many  of  the  fruit-hoaring 
twigs  die  and  drop  off  with  their  fruit,  thus  making  the  natural 
open  growth  of  the  trees  still  more  open  and  reducing  to  a  mini  muni 
the  necessity  for  pruning.  There  are  two  points,  however,  which 
should  be  borne  in  mind:  (1)  The  upright  tendency  of  some  of  the 
most  vigorous  varieties  should  be  checked  by  pinching  off  the  tender 
growing  tips  as  they  get  out  of  reach,  and  (2)  those  trees  that  do  not 
prune  themselves  sufficiently  to  keep  the  top  well  open  should  be 
thinned  by  removing  entire  limbs  either  main  or  secondary.  This 
practice  is  preferable  to  opening  the  tops  by  thinning  out  the  small 
branches  and  thus  leaving  the  larger  limbs  bare  for  a  considerable 
portion  of  then1  length.  Thinning  admits  light  and  air,  and  at  the 
same  time  a  stronger  vegetative  growth  is  induced ;  the  result  is  that 
the  size  of  the  fruit  is  kept  uniform  and  the  crops  are  made  more 
regular  by  reducing  the  tendency  to  overbear  on  alternate  years. 

All  wounds  should  be  painted  or  otherwise  covered  as  soon  as  made, 
in  order  to  prevent  the  wood  from  drying  or  dying  back  and  decay 
from  entering  the  body  of  the  trees. 

DISEASES  AND  INSECT  PESTS. 

The  persimmon  is  exceptionally  free  from  the  attacks  of  diseases 
and  insect  pests.  Probably  the  most  important  of  the  insect  ene- 
mies of  the  persimmon'  is  the  hickory  twig  girdler.  The  following 
brief  account  of  the  life  history  and  habits  of  this  insect,  prepared 
for  this  bulletin  by  the  Bureau  of  Entomology,  may  be  of  interest  to 
those  who  anticipate  growing  the  persimmon : 

The  hickory  twig  girdler,  Ondderes  cingulata  Say,  makes  its  appearance  about  the 
middle  of  August  and  may  be  found  until  the  first  of  October.  It  begins  depositing 
its  eggs  about  the  latter  part  of  August  and  continues  the  process  well  into  October.. 
The  eggs  hatch  in  from  seven  to  nine  days  after  deposition,  and  the  young  larva  begins 
to  feed  on  the  inner  bark  and  wood  at  the  point  where  the  egg  was  inserted  beneath 
the  bark.  As  the  larva  increases  in  size  it  continues  to  feed  on  the  wood,  going  deeper 
into  the  twig,  and  by  the  time  its  full  growth  has  been  attained  it  often  completely 
hollows  out  the  twig  for  some  little  distance  from  the  point  where  it  began  work. 
Some  of  the  larvae  attain  their  full  growth  and  begin  transformation  to  pupae  about 
the  first  of  August.  Others  do  not  make  this  change  until  near  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember. The  pupal  stage  lasts  from  10  to  14  days,  when  the  insects  transform  to 
adults  and  emerge  from  the  twigs  where  they  have  spent  their  lives.  Several  days 
pass  before  they  begin  laying  their  eggs  in  the  small  limbs  and  twigs. 

The  injury  caused  by  this  insect  occurs  in  the  process  of  oviposition.  The  adult 
gnaws  a  small  hole  in  the  bark,  usually  just  above  or  just  below  a  bud,  and  the  egg 
is  inserted  benedth  the  bark  by  means  of  the  ovipositor.  Several  eggs  are  usually 
deposited  in  a  twig  in  this  manner,  and  the  insect  then  begins  girdling  the  twig  beneath 
the  point  of  oviposition  by  gnawing  out  small  pieces  of  the  bark.  A  ring  is  thus  made 
around  the  twig,  perhaps  a  third  of  the  way  through,  weakening  it  to  such  an  extent 
that  it  is  broken  off  by  the  wind  during  the  winter  or  the  following  spring.  The 
trees  are  often  severely  injured  by  having  the  young  growth  pruned  off  in  this  manner. 


THE    NATIVE   PERSIMMON. 


21 


In  order  to  control  this  insect  the  twigs  should  be  picked  up  from  the  ground  in 
June  or  early  July.  All  twigs  which  are  found  at  this  time  have  been  girdled  and 
broken  from  the  tree  and  should  be  collected  and  burned  in  order  to  destroy  the 
insects  which  are  inside  them. 

USES  OF  THE  PERSIMMON  TREE. 

The  largest  purchases  of  persimmon  wood  are  made  by  the  manu- 
facturers of  cotton-mill  supplies,  who  use  the  timber  in  making 
bobbins.  The  wood  is  well  suited  for  this  work,  as  it  is  strong, 
comparatively  light,  hard,  elastic,  and  close  grained,  taking  a  high 
polish.  Shoe  lasts  are  also  made  to  some  extent  from  persimmon 
wood. 

The  tree  has  some  value  for  shade  and  ornamental  purposes.  Con- 
cerning this  use  of  the  native  persimmon  Mr.  F.  L.  Mulford,  land- 
scape gardener  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture,  writes  as  follows: 

As  an  ornamental  for  lawns  the  persimmon  compares  favorably  with  any  of  the 
shade  trees  used  on  private  grounds,  provided  that  it  does  not  overhang  a  sidewalk, 
where  the  dropping  of  fruits  would  be  objectionable.  The  broad,  glossy  leaves  on 
the  gracefully  drooping  branches  give  a  dense  shade  from  early  in  the  spring  until 
the  autumn  is  well  advanced. 

In  the  early  summer  the  little  waxlike  flowers  fill  the  air  with  a  delicious  fragrance, 
somewhat  resembling  that  of  the  calla  lily.  When  the  fruit  begins  to  mature,  yel- 
lowish and  golden  clusters  appear  among  the  dark-green  leaves  and  add  to  the  beauty 
of  the  tree  until  they  fall.  Some  of  the  later  varieties  are  ornamental  after  the 
leaves  have  fallen  and  even  until  well  into  the  winter. 

USES  OF  THE  PERSIMMON  FRUIT. 

The  only  fruit  which  equals  the  persimmon  in  food  value  is  the 
date.  This  is  shown  by  the  analyses  presented  in  Table  I. 

TABLE  I. — Comparative  analyses  of  fresh  fruits,  showing  their  food  values  in  percentages 
of  the  weight  of  the  fruit.1 


Fruit. 

Total 

solids. 

Ash. 

Protein. 

Sugars. 

Crude 
fiber. 

Per  cent. 
13.65 
13.59 
22.30 
15.23 
it  06.  fid 
20.13 
'21.83 
13.87 
2  10.  60 
16.97 
2  35.  17 
15.14 
13.79 
9.48 

Per  cent. 
0.28 
.48 
.65 
.72 
4  1.20 
.57 
.53 
.43 
.40 
.31 
.78 
.61 
.49 
.60 

Ptr  cent. 
0.69 
.51 
.81 
.51 
5  1.48 
1.34 
.59 
.48 
.70 
.36 
.88 
.40 
.53 
.97 

Per  cent. 
10.26 
4.44 
11.72 
6.38 
«56.59 
15.51 
»  17.  11 
15.91 
65.90 
8.26 
9  31.  74 
3.56 
3.95 
5.36 

PIT  cent. 
0.96 
5.21 
.62 
4.57 
'3.80 

3.60 

'  "3."  60 
4.30 
1.43 
4.34 
5.90 
1.51 

Currants  
Dates  -.  

i.r  rapes  ^  •  •  -  -  •  • 

Peaches  7  
Pears  

Persimmons  ">  

i  Data,  with  exceptions  as  noted,  from  Bureau  of  Chemistry  Bulletin  66,  pp.  41-4L1. 

»  Average  of  11  analyses.    See  "Chemistry  and  ripening  of  the  date,"  Arizona  Agricultural  Experiment 


rition  and  nutritive  value  of  food,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  142,  p.  18. 
Adapted  from  the  two  publications  mentioned  in  footnotes  3  and  4. 
•  Fats  and  carbohydrates. 

'See  "Use  of  fruit  as  food,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  293,  p.  14. 
8  See  "The  American  persimmon,"  Indiana  Experiment  Station  Bulletin  60  (1896),  p.  52. 

10  Avera^fof^analyses  in  "  Tha  American  persimmon,"  Indiana  Experiment  Station  Bulletin  60  (1896). 


22  FABMERS'   BULLETIN   685. 

Probably  the  most  common  use  of  the  fruit  is  as  feed  for  hogs.  As 
a  rule,  the  hogs  are  merely  turned  loose  in  lots  where  persimmon 
trees  have  come  up  naturally.  Some,  however,  who  appreciate  the 
value  of  this  fruit  as  stock  feed  have  set  out  orchards  in  order  to 
provide  a  definite  supply  for  this  purpose.  If  varieties  are  selected 
which  ripen  in  a  continuous  sequence,  the  fruit  will,  in  some  sections, 
furnish  forage  for  hogs  from  the  last  of  August  until  early  winter.  A 
small  area  devoted  to  persimmons  can  thus  be  made  a  valuable  asset 
for  any  general  farm  located  in  a  persimmon  district  which  includes 
hogs  among  its  stock. 

The  persimmon  fruits  intended  for  shipment  should,  to  avoid 
bruising,  be  carefully  hand  picked  while  still  quite  firm,  that  is,  just 
as  the  flesh  begins  to  soften.  Fruits  which  can  be  delivered  direct 
to  the  consumer  should  not  be  picked  until  fully  mature  and  should 
also  be  handled  with  great  care.  Fruit  of^the  later  varieties,  espe- 
cially those  of  the  oblong  type,  often  hang  on  the  trees  for  weeks, 
drying  to  about  the  consistency  of  the  commercial  date. 

Quart  and  pint  size  berry  boxes  are  commonly  used  when  packing 
the  fruit  for  market,  the  baskets  being  handled  in  the  ordinary  straw- 
berry crates.  Larger  units  would  result  in  bruising  the  softer  fruits 
and  are  therefore  not  advisable.  Crates  in  which  the  individual 
fruits  are  placed  in  separate  compartments  are  suggested  for  shipping 
the  better  grades  of  persimmons,  and  it  is  believed  that  a  trade  which 
will  fully  repay  the  expense  and  trouble  of  this  method  of  handling 
can  be  built  up  in  any  town  of  moderate  size.  Persimmons  which 
are  placed  in  storage  should  be  packed  in  egg  crates  or  similar  con- 
tainers that  hold  the  fruits  separate. 

RECIPES  FOR  USING  PERSIMMONS. 

Before  the  advent  of  the  white  man,  the  Indians  mixed  the  pulp 
of  this  fruit  with  crushed  corn  and  made  it  into  a  kind  of  bread. 
Now,  there  are  many  ways  in  which  the  fruit  can  be  used,  but  the 
different  methods  are  not  well  known,  and  many  people  with  fine 
trees  in  their  possession  are  allowing  the  fruit  to  waste  because  they 
do  not  realize  its  value.  The  dissemination  of  knowledge  regarding 
the  use  of  the  persimmon  in  preparing  very  palatable  food  products 
should  result  in  much  wider  use  of  the  fruit.  To  this  end  a  number 
of  recipes  are  included  in  this  publication. 

Since  heat  makes  the  astringency  of  the  persimmon  more  apparent, 
it  is  always  well  to  add  one-half  teaspoonful  of  baking  soda  (bicar- 
bonate of  soda)  to  each  cupful  of  persimmon  pulp  in  all  recipes 
where  the  fruit  is  subjected  to  heat.  Although  it  has  been  proved  by 
experiment  that  the  soda  may  be  omitted  if  the  fruit  is  entirely 
free  from  astringency,  it  is  better  to  use  it  until  one  is  sure  of  the 
quality  of  the  persimmon  pulp. 


THE   NATIVE   PERSIMMON.  23 


PERSIMMON    BREAD. 


1  cup  of  persimmon  pulp.  Yeast. 

1  cup  of  water.  Shortening. 

\  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Flour  to  make  a  stiff  dough. 

Set  to  rise,  mold,  and  bake  like  other  bread. 


PERSIMMON    CRUMPETS. 


Take  1  pint  of  the  sponge  of  persimm'on  bread  which  has  been  set  over  night,  add  one 
egg  and  enough  milk  to  make  a  thin  batter,  set  to  rise  for  one  hour,  then  bake  on  a  hot 
griddle  like  griddlecakes.  Serve  hot  with  butter  or  sirup. 


PERSIMMON    GRIDDLECAKES. 

1  cup  of  persimmon  pulp.  1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

1  egg.  \  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

1  cup  of  flour.  Milk  to  make  a  thin  batter. 
Bake  and  serve  as  above. 

PERSIMMON-PEANUT    GRIDDLECAKES. 

1  cup  of  persimmon  pulp.  1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

1  tablespoonful  of  peanut  butter.         \  teaspoonful  of  soda. 
1  egg.  Milk  to  make  a  thin  batter. 

1  cup  of  flour. 
Bake  and  serve  as  above. 

PERSIMMON-PEANUT   MUFFINS  (A    GOOD    RECIPE    FOR   CAMPERS). 

\  cup  of  persimmon  pulp.  1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

1  tablespoonful  of  peanut  butter.         \  teaspoonful  of  soda. 
1  cup  of  flour. 
Press  or  cut  in  pats  \  inch  thick  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

COFFEE    FRUIT    CAKE. 

Boil  together  1  cup  of  molasses  and  \\  cups  of  minced  dried  persimmons  for  five 
minutes.  Cream  1  cup  of  sugar,  \  cup  of  butter  and  1  egg,  and  add  to  the  above. 
Stir  in  three-fourths  of  a  cup  of  strong  coffee  and  place  on  a  warm  stove.  Add  2  cups 
of  flour;  \\  teaspoonfuls  of  mixed  ground  spice;  \\  teaspoonfuls  of  a  phosphate  baking 
powder,  or  if  preferred,  1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  and  \  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Bake  in  a  moderate  or  slow  oven  40  minutes  to  1  hour. 

PERSIMMON    CAKE. 

1  cup  of  persimmon  pulp.  1  cup  of  flour. 

%  cup  of  sugar.  1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

I  egg  £  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Butter  of  size  of  a  walnut. 

Bake  40  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  For  a  soft  pudding  leave  out  the  eggs.  For 
a  custard  leave  out  the  flour  and  the  baking  powder. 

PERSIMMON    PUDDING    (CAKE    OR   PONE).1 

1  pint  of  fine  persimmon  pulp.  3  cups  of  flour. 

1  cup  of  sugar.  1  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon. 

1  quart  of  sweet  milk.  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

«  The  American  persimmon.    Indiana  Experiment  Station  Bulletin  60,  pp.  43-54, 189C. 


24  FARMERS'  BULLETIN  685. 


PRESERVED    PERSIMMON    PULP. 

Place  equal  amounts  of  persimmon  pulp  and  sugar  in  glass  or  earthenware  jars  or  in 
coated  sanitary  cans.  (Never  use  cans  of  uncoated  tin  for  persimmons.)  Mix 
thoroughly  and  set  in  a  cool,  light  place.  Stir  occasionally  until  the  air  is  removed 
and  seal  with  paraffin  or  waxed  paper.  The  cans  may  be  heated  over  a  slow  fire, 
just  enough  to  drive  out  the  air,  and  should  be  sealed  at  once. 

PRESERVED    WHOLE    PERSIMMONS. 

Put  a  thin  layer  of  sugar  in  the  bottom  of  a  jar;  then  a  layer  of  whole  ripe  persim- 
mons, then  a  layer  of  sugar;  and  so  on  until  the  jar  is  full.  The  sugar  will  soon  dis- 
solve and  form  a  sirup.  Press  the  upper  fruits  down  under  the  sirup  or  add  more 
sirup  to  the  jars.  Seal  and  store  until  used.  The  sirup  may  be  drained  off  and 
the, fruits  served  like  dates,  which  they  will  resemble  very  much  in  both  appear- 
ance and  flavor. 

PERSIMMON    LEATHER. 

Spread  a  thin  layer  of  ripe  persimmon  pulp  on  waxed  paper  or  on  a  large  platter. 
Dry  in  the  sun,  in  a  fruit  evaporator,  or  in  the  oven  of  a  stove,  leaving  the  oven  doors 
open.  Remove  the  seeds.  Add  another  layer  of  pulp,  and  repeat  until  the  leather 
is  of  a  thickness  to  handle  easily.  This  may  be  diced  or  minced  and  used  instead  of 
raisins  or  citron  in  fruit  cakes,  cookies,  or  puddings. 

PERSIMMON   ICE    CREAM. 

2  cups  of  persimmon  pulp.  1  cup  of  thick,  sweet  cream. 

Beat  together  thoroughly  and  freeze  like  ordinary  ice  cream.  The  fruit  must  be 
thoroughly  ripe  and  nonastringent. 

PERSIMMON    FRUIT   ICE. 

2  cups  of  persimmon  pulp.  1  cup  of  sugar. 

Beat  to  a  creamy  pulp  and  freeze. 

PERSIMMON    TAFFY. 

Two  cups  of  the  sirup  from  the  preserved  whole  persimmons.  Add  1  cup  of  sugar 
and  cook  until  it  forms  a  hard  ball  in  water.  Pour  on  a  buttered  platter  and  pull. 
Cut  in  sticks  and  squares. 

PERSIMMON    FUDGE. 

2  cups  of  persimmon  pulp.  2  cups  of  sugar. 

Cook  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  occasionally,  until  graining  begins.  Add  1  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking  soda  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  quite  stiff.  Spread  on  buttered 
platter  or  paraffin  paper. 

SELECTED  AND  CULTIVATED  NAMED  VARIETIES. 

The  native  persimmon  varieties  that  have  thus  far  received  names 
and  been  disseminated  for  cultivation  have  originated  as  chance 
seedlings',  being  brought  into  cultivation*  from  the  wild  state.  With 
few  exceptions,  the  fruits  of  these  varieties  are  of  the  oblate  type. 
Brief  descriptions  of  the  fruit  of  some  of  the  better  known  varieties 
follow. 


THE    NATIVE    PERSIMMON.  25 

DESCRIPTIONS  OF  VARIETIES. 

Burrier.     Origin,  central    Kentucky,  where   it   ripens  rather   early;  form,  oblate; 

size,  medium;  color,  yellow;  practically  seedless;  flesh,  soft;  quality,  very  good. 
Boone    (Daniel   Boone).     Origin,   Indiana,    where   it    ripens  during    October  and 

November;  form,  roundish  oblate;  size,  medium;  color,  yellow,  with  a  dull 

blush  in  the  sun;  skin,  rather  tough;  seeds,  numerous;  flavor,  sweet  but  not  rich; 

quality,  good. 

Delmas.  Origin,  Scranton,  Miss.,  where  it  ripens  during  October  and  early  Novem- 
ber; form,  roundish  oblate;  size,  medium  to  large;  color,  reddish  yellow;  skin, 
thin  and  tough;  seeds,  numerous;  flavor,  sweet  and  rich;  quality,  very  good. 

Early  Bearing.  Introduced  from  Cartersburg,  Ind.,  where  it  ripens  early  in  Octo- 
ber; form,  round  ovate;  size,  medium;  color,  dull  yellow;  quality,  good. 

Early  Golden.  Origin,  Illinois,  where  it  ripens  in  September;  form,  oblongj'size, 
medium  to  large;  color,  yellow;  skin,  thin;  seeds,  few;  flavor,  sweet;  quality, 
very  good . 

Golden  Gem.  Introduced  from  Borden,  Ind.,  where  it  ripens  from  August  to 
October;  form,  roundish  oblong;  size,  medium  to  large;  color,  dark  orange  to  red; 
seeds,  few;  flavor,  rich  and  sweet;  quality,  good. 

Hicks.  Origin,  Washington  County,  Ind.,  where  it  ripens  in  October;  form,  roundish 
oblate;  size,  medium  to  large;  color,  dark  red;  skin,  thin  and  tender;  seeds,  few; 
flavor,  rich;  quality,  very  good. 

Josephine  (American  Honey,  Honey).  Origin  near  Bluffton,  Mo.,  where  it  ripens 
in  September;  form,  roundish  oblate;  size,  medium;  color,  bright  yellow,  changing 
to  pale  translucent;  skin,  tough;  seeds,  few;  flavor,  sweet  and  rich;  quality,  good. 

Kansas.  Introduced  from  Missouri,  where  it  ripens  in  September;  form,  roundish 
oblate;  size,  rather  large;  color,  yellow  splashed  with  red;  flavor,  rich;  quality, 
very  good. 

Miller.  Origin,  Jackson  County,  Mo.,  where  it  ripens  in  September;  form,  roundish 
oblate;  size,  large;  color,  reddish  yellow,  translucent;  skin,  tough;  seeds,  rather 
numerous;  flavor,  sweet;  quality,  good. 

Ruby  (Little's  Ruby).  Introduced  from  Cartersburg,  Ind.,  where  it  ripens  during 
September  and  for  some  time  later;  form,  roundish  oblate;  size,  small  to  medium; 
color,  yellowish  red,  shading  to  deep  red;  skin,  tender;  seeds,  few;  flavor,  sweet; 
quality,  very  good. 

Shoto.  Introduced  from  Danville,  Ind.,  where itripens  during  October;  form,  oblong 
ovate;  size,  large;  color,  dull  yellow,  blushed  in  the  sun;  skin,  rather  tough; 
seeds,  few;  quality,  very  good. 

Smeech.  Introduced  from  Pennsylvania,,  where  it  ripens  during  October  and  No- 
vember; form,  roundish  oblate;  size,  medium;  color,  dull  yellow,  splashed  with 
red;  flavor,  rich  and  sweet;  quality,  very  good. 


233215 

BERKELEY, 


PUBLICATIONS   OF   UNITED   STATES    DEPARTMENT    OF    AGRICULTURE 
RELATING  TO  FRUIT  GROWING,  ETC. 

AVAILABLE  FOR   FREE   DISTRIBUTION. 

Grape  Diseases  on  the  Pacific  Coast.     By  Xewton  B.  Pierce.     Pp.  14,  figs.  3.     1895. 

(Farmers'  Bulletin  30.) 
The  Apple  and  How  to  Grow  It.     By  G.   B.   Brackett.     Pp.  32,  figs.   10!     1909. 

(Farmers'  Bulletin  113.) 
Pineapple  Growing.     By  Peter  H.  Rolfs.     Pp.  47,  figs.  4.     1901.     (Farmers'  Bulletin 

140) 
The  Home  Fruit  Garden:  Preparation  and  Care.     By  L.  C.  Corbett.     Pp.  16,  figs.  6. 

1905.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  154.) 
Cranberry  Culture.     By  L.  C.  Corbett.     Pp.  20,  figs.  12.     1903.     (Farmers'  Bulletin 

176.) 

Pruning.     By  L.  C.  Corbett.     Pp.  39,  figs.  25.     1903.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  181.) 
Strawberries.     By  L.  C.  Corbett.     Pp.  24,  figs.  15.     1904.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  198.) 
Canned  Fruit,  Preserves,  and  Jellies:  Household  Methods  of  Preparation.     By  Maria 

Parloa..    Pp.  31,  figs.  5.     1905.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  203.) 

Raspberries.     By  L.  C.  Corbett.     Pp.  37,  figs.  25.     1905.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  213.)  - 
Fungous   Diseases  of  the  Cranberry.     By  C.    L.    Shear.     Pp.    16,   figs.    11.     1905. 

(Farmers'  Bulletin  221.) 
Fungicides  and  Their  Use  in  Preventing  Diseases  of  Fruits.     By  M.  B.  Waite.     Pp.  32, 

figs.  17.     1906.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  243.) 
Use  of  Fruit  as  Food.     By  C.  F.  Langworthy.     Pp.  38,  1  fig.     1907.     (Farmers'  Bul- 

letin 293.) 
The  Protection  of  Orchards  in  the  Pacific  Northwest  from  Spring  Frosts  by  Means  of 

Fires  and   Smudges.     By  P.   J.   O'Gara.     Pp.   24,   figs.    11.     1910.     (Farmers' 

Bulletin  401.) 
Irrigation  of  Orchards.     By  Samuel   Fortier.     Pp.  36,  figs.  32.     1910.     (Farmers' 

Bulletin  404.) 
Canning  Peaches  on  the  Farm.     By  H.  P.  Gould  and  \V.  F.  Fletcher.     Pp.  26,  figs.  14. 

1910.  (Farmers'  Bulletin  426.) 

Spraying  Peaches  for  the  Control  of  Brown-Rot,  Scab,  and  Curculio.     By  W.  M.  Scott 

and  A.  L.  Quaintance.     Pp.  40,  figs.  14.     1911.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  440.) 
Grape  Propagation,  Pruning,  and  Training.     By  George  C.  Husmann.     Pp.  29,  figs.  30. 

1911.  (Farmers'  Bulletin  471.) 

The  Pear  and  How  to  Grow  It.    By  G.  B.  Brackett.     Pp.  31,  figs.  30.     1915.     (Farmers' 

Bulletin  482.) 
The  Profitable  Management  of  the  Small  Apple  Orchard  on  the  General  Farm.     By 

M.  C.  Burritt.     Pp.  22,  figs.  8.     1915.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  491.) 
The  More  Important  Insect  and  Fungous  Enemies  of    the  Fruit  and  Foliage  of 

the  Apple.     By  A.  L.  Quaintance  and  W.  M.  Scott.     Pp.  48,  figs.  21.     1912. 

(Farmers'  Bulletin  492.) 
-Sites,  Soils,  and  Varieties  for  Citrus  Groves  in  the  Gulf  States.     By  P.  H.  Rolfs.     Pp. 

15.     1913.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  538.) 
Propagation  of  Citrus  Trees  in  the  Gulf  States.     By  P.  H.Rolfs.     Pp.  16,  figs.  9.     1913. 

(Farmers'  Bulletin  539.) 
Culture,  Fertilization,  and  Frost  Protection  of  Citrus  Groves  in  the  Gulf  States.     By 

P.  H.  Rolfs.     Pp.  20,  figs.  3.     1913.     (Farmers'  Bulletin  542.) 
Growing  Peaches:  Sites,  Propagation,  Planting,  Tillage,  and  Maintenance  of  Soil 

Fertility.     By  H.  P.  Gould.     Pp.  24,  figs.  8.     1915.     (Fanners'  Bulletin  631.) 
Growing  Peaches:  Pruning,  Renewal  of  Tops,  Thinning,  Interplanted  Crops,  and 

Special  Practices.     By  H.  P.  Gould.    Pp.  23,  figs.  19.     1915.     (Farmers^  Bulle- 

tin 632.) 


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